Wall Coverings

One of the best and simplest ways to cover bare walls is with a couple of coats of good-quality emulsion. It looks stylish and it’s easy to clean. Better still, it’s easy to renew or change - you just paint right over the top of it!

The secret to a well-painted wall is having a good surface before you start. If you’re painting on to brand new plasterboard or dry plaster, this isn’t going to be too much of a problem, although it’s worth remembering that a single layer of new plaster will take three to six weeks to dry properly and two or more layers can take much longer. It’s not a good idea to paint on to plaster that isn’t fully dry as the paint will seal in moisture, leaving the plaster unstable. When the plaster is dry it will need sealing - if you put any kind of paint on unsealed plaster it just won’t stick properly and before long you’ll have problems with flaking.

You can buy ready-made sealants, or you can make your own by mixing four parts emulsion with one part water. Remember to factor this in when you’re calculating exactly who much paint you’ll need to cover your new plaster. If you’re using an oil-based paint - eggshell, say, or gloss - mixed sealant won’t do the job, because the oil in the paint won’t form a solution with water. In a case like this, use PVA instead. It’s cheap and you can buy it in any DIY store.

If you’re painting on to an older surface, wash down the wall first and then spend some time filling in as many holes and cracks as you can using filler. When the filler has dried, sand it down so that it’s flush with the existing surface, and  then wipe the whole area thoroughly to get rid of any dust that might clog your brushes. If you’re emulsioning straight on to old paint you shouldn’t need to prime, although filled sections should be given a dab of primer so that top coats have something to stick to. If you’re painting over a very bright colour, bear in mind that you may need more than two coats of new emulsion to conceal it completely. Resist the temptation to paint or paper old paper. Unless it’s very sound and has no pattern at all you’re storing up problems for the future.

Unfortunately, paint isn’t an option for every wall in every home. Paint only really looks good if it’s applied to a good surface. As we’ve said, small holes and cracks in plasterwork can be filled in, but even a good-quality textured paint won’t hide large-scale unevenness.

The alternative - wallpaper - is an excellent solution in itself. However, you should make your choices carefully. It’s not a good idea to buy really expensive or delicate wallpaper if you have boisterous kids or pets charging around. Hanging wallpaper is a bit of a science all to itself, though it’s actually quite easy if you plan carefully in advance and allow plenty of time.

You should consult a DIY handbook for a description of the full process, but the basic ‘do’s and ‘don’t’s are simple: keep edges and joins straight and completely perpendicular to the skirting board. Make sure you’re really thorough about brushing out air bubbles and making precise joins. Pattern matching is important too, though it can be difficult with some papers. If the wallpaper you’ve chosen is making pattern matching hard, make sure as far as you can that the patterns at least match at eye level. Any clashes are less likely to be noticed if they are further up or down the wall.

If you accidentally get adhesive on the face of the paper, wipe it off immediately - if it won’t wipe, or it smears, discard that piece of paper - don’t be tempted to overcomplicate things or spoil the look of your wall by chopping out and replacing the smeared section and introducing ugly horizontal seams. As we’ve said, the secret is to plan everything in detail, in advance, including the amount of paper you’re going to need. Buy a few lengths more than are strictly necessary and try not to buy paper that is about to be discontinued by manufacturers or stockists. If things go really pear-shaped you want to be able to get hold of more!

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